When Justin and Kairi Kett opened the doors to Fork Kitchen & Deli in Hadleigh three years ago, we were living in Covid times.

The world was plunged into uncertainty. Rules on what you could and couldn't do, who you could see, where you could go, changed almost as often as the direction of the wind.

It was, the couple admitted at the time, a huge risk. But one the pair were more than willing to take in a bid to move from working for others in hospitality (Justin as a chef and Kairi front of house), to running their own show…on their own terms.

So much work went into transforming a former cycle shop (in prime real estate, right in the town's historical heart) into a deli/shop/kitchen. When I arrived to interview Justin days before the first customers would be ushered in, he was down to just a few hours' sleep a night, while Kairi had been struck by crippling back pain - continuing to do what she could to get the doors open, while looking after their young daughter.

But, boy, was the (figurative) blood, sweat and tears worth it.

In November they celebrated their third anniversary with an expanded team, and a business that has shapeshifted over the years and months, into one that has a merry band of regulars, and genuinely feels like part of the community - as though it's always been there.

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Justin and Kairi took baby steps to be where they are today. They opened with a deli counter, homemade cakes and bakes (including Scotch eggs that flew out the door from the get-go), and shelves and chillers brimming with their own produce, from pickles and chutneys to ice cream, pasta and gourmet ready meals.

On opening Floor 2 upstairs, Justin then launched his masterclasses. Lunchtime sessions around a theme, where small groups watch the chef at work, before sitting down to a two-course lunch. These have become so popular, they regularly sell out months in advance.

Floor 2 at Fork (Picture: Charlotte Smith-Javis)

Then last summer the ground floor opened a cafe offering which, again, has become more popular than I suspect they imagined it might.

As locals, we love it…and so do our friends. We'll regularly wind up there for our 'ladies what lunch' get-togethers, and if my hubby and I have a rare day off together, it's usually top of our list for a morning mocha and a bit of cake.

The food, rustled up in the open kitchen, changes regularly, uses as much local produce as possible, and is lovely. Think Baron Bigod and wild mushrooms melted over sourdough. House granola tarted up with plump berries and yoghurt. French toast with fried chicken and maple syrup. And prawn arancini with tomato aioli. The menu never stands still, and combines cafe classics (such as bacon and sausage buns, or their version of a full English) with dishes that showcase the chefs' culinary flair.

You've also got your pick from the counter - of filled bagels, sandwiches, toasties, pastries, towering sponge cakes, brownies and more.

But, if you've passed by before, did you know they also do private dining?

I do think there's a bit of a stigma around that phrase. 'Private dining' smacks of 'poshness', and has in the past (definitely) implied expense, and exclusivity.

Today, that's just not the case. Lots of chefs, disillusioned by the peak Covid years, have gone out on their own to offer in-home dining experiences. And there's been a boom in private dining - where you can have your own bespoke menu designed, made to a controlled budget, with personal service.

Booking a private festive shindig at Fork has become a bit of a tradition for my mates and I now - and the experience is so brilliant, I felt compelled to write about it this year.

Not only do they put up with our annual, (often tasteless) shenanigans, but the food and service is faultless.

We arrived last weekend with our sack of Secret Santa presents and what was clearly a blow-up doll wrapped in paper, to a magical set-up on the top floor. Low lighting, plenty of space for the 10 of us to mingle, twinkling fairylights. The beauty is we had the whole place to ourselves, which meant we could actually be ourselves, let our hair down, and feel truly truly relaxed and looked after.

Baby baked camembert

Leading the charge on the night was chef Tom at the stoves, and fabulous front of house pro Harry, who is loved by customers for his big smile, kind, warm nature, and can-do attitude. He's so good I didn't even notice several times throughout the night that he'd topped up my glass - and I was on the soft drinks!

Onto the food. There's a lot of pressure on kitchens to deliver the goods at this time of year. Feeding groups of people who rarely get together (office workers, old friends, family) a meal that has so many emotions attached. I don't envy them one bit - I can't imagine having to cook turkey dinners every day for weeks - how boring!

A month or so before our meal, a menu was sent over for our perusal so any tweaks or suggestions could be made, and our final decisions locked in.

To start, a selection of Harvey & Co breads with whipped butter (the Tide Mill Tang is gorgeous, buy a loaf if you're passing by here, or Harvey's cafe near Woodbridge).

That stoked the fires nicely, and had us properly chomping at the bit for our starters. Generously composed retro prawn cocktail salad, with a tangy dressing and flourish of caviar. Or a baby camembert, baked to collapse with mild chilli jam, and a winter spiced pear salad those of us who ordered the dish swooned over.

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Retro prawn cocktail

The pressure was on Tom, then, to keep up the momentum with a bloody good roast. And he definitely delivered.

Plated with a lot more care than I reckon most of us give the annual turkey fest, the majority of us had plentiful meat, cooked to perfection, with a herby sausagemeat stuffing run through the thigh, a pig in blanket, creamy thyme-infused carrot puree, carrots, proper, golden, rough and crackly-edged roasties, and fresh greens with lardons and sweet chestnuts. Bowls of braised red cabbage and cranberry sauce arrived for us to dollop on ourselves. And lashings of gravy - at my request (sidenote: don't you hate it when you only get a spoonful of sauce?).

Our veggie friends had nut and parsnip roast in place of the turkey. "It's delicious," they told us through mouthfuls.

Again, 'private dining' comes with connotations of stinginess and small portions of overly fancy food. But that's not the case here. Even I was pulling at my imaginary top button by the end of the main course. Some of the ladies (not me) shuffled a few things to their other half.

Most of us managed to make it through pudding - melt-in-the-middle chocolate fondant or a Christmas pudding flavoured version, served either with Christmas pudding ice cream and winter berries, or an ethereal, cloud-like puff of orange-scented cream. Absolutely blooming gorgeous.

What Harry (or Tom downstairs in the kitchen) made of our rude Snap, sumo wrestler game, or 'dirty jelly babies', we'll never know, they were consummate professionals (I'm sure they got a giggle out of it and thought we were bonkers - we are).

A pretty perfect night. And at only £50 per head for three courses with bread, for a bespoke menu, our own private space, and personal service, a bargain if you ask this foodie.

If you've got a birthday or celebration coming up get in touch with the team here.

A Master class on Chocolate will be held at the Fork on February 22, Home made Pasta and Sauces on March 21, and Bread and Butter on April 25.

Book now to clinch your spot.

Otherwise, Fork is open 8.30am to around 4pm Monday to Saturday.

*This review from Charlotte Smith-Jarvis first appeared on her critically acclaimed Suffolk Food Stories here...